All of those who adopt a hedgehog from me are required to read this information prior to adoption.By adopting a hedgehog from me you are acknowledging that you have read and agreed to all of the information provided on this website. 

Hedgehogs make wonderful pets for the right owners! If you spend time with your hog and provide him/her with proper care, you can develop a pleasant relationship with each other! Hedgehogs are unique and Curious animals that, when properly cared for, can recognize their owner's voice and prefer their owners over other people, a bond!

  Though hedgehogs are known as being solitary, the bond I've seen hogs have with loving owners is something truly special!

*The information provided here is not to replace proper veterinary care nor veterinary recommendation. *

** The word "bond" refers to the level of tolerance and acceptance your hedgehog develops with you in their environment.

 If you are interested in becoming a hog parent please view the" is a hoggo right for you?" tab to take a self answered questionnaire. This questionnaire will help you determine if a pet hoggo is right for you. 

 * this information is not a substitute for veterinary care. Consult with your veterinarian on a care plan for your new pet*

Okay, so as stated in this article's title, here I will cover the very basics of hedgehog care. This is the bare minimum information new owners must absorb and be aware of :) all information provided is based on known/proven hedgehog care requirements and personal experience.

  I will certainly write up and post more in depth care articles in the future, but my writing and computer skills stink, so please be patient. Here goes....

  If your new hedgehog is 7-12 weeks of age, he/she will more than likely be experiencing a "quilling". This is a time in which a young hedgehog will begin losing baby quills and new ones will be popping on into take their place. This is a very normal process for hedgehogs to go through, in fact your hedgehog will experience quilling even as an adult, just at a lesser frequency. Adult hogs quill approx once or twice per year in comparison to a 0-1 year hedgehog who might seem to always be loosing quills. Though quilling is normal you should note any excessively irritated skin or extreme quill loss (sparse quills or noticeable bald spots) because they could be an indicator that your hedgehog has mites. Yuck! I'll cover mites more in depth at another time. They're gross, trust me. 

                                            BONDING/THE RELATIONSHIP

Bonding is the level of tolerance your hedgehog develops to being handled by you and having you as an acceptable part of their environment. In humans we call these relationships and bonds, so those are the terms used here. 

Hedgehogs are prey animals and owners must develop a bond through initial frequent handling in order to imprint themselves in their 'mind as "someone whose not going to hurt them".

    Bonding with your hedgehog sounds fun doesn't it? It really is my favorite part of being a hedgehog owner. 

   All 15 of my hedgehogs frolicking to me every time i open their cage and covering me in hedgehog kisses.....oh wait....that's not how it goes at all....

  Hedgehogs are in reality not very cuddly at all. Most hedgehogs will never seek out their owners. There are,fortunately ,things you can do to strengthen your relationship with your hedgehog or at least keep it positive. 

   Always keep in mind that Hedgehogs are considered bonding animals. This means they take quite some time to get used to new owners and will typically prefer one person over another if there are multiple owners/handlers involved in the hedgehog's life. For example, I have 15 hedgehogs, most of which were born here and have seen my mugg and heard my voice from the day they could hear and open their eyes. I'd say they're pretty used to me. 10 out of 15 hedgehogs don't give me that hard of a time during grooming and handling. 4 out of 15 give me a run for my money. 1 out of 15 is extremely difficult (semi cujo status 😂).

    Even though 5 of my 15 hedgehogs aren't the easiest to handle, I think I've hit the jackpot on easy handlers.  

    When my husband who hasn't been involved with the hedgehogs from day 1 ( and is hardly  within their presence ) assists with hedgehog care, 14 out of 15 hedgehogs are very difficult for him to handle. Only my eldest female even remotely cooperates for him, and even she's a little rude. Truth is they don't know my husband well. They haven't grown used to his presence and the sound of his voice. So they're not bonded to him at all, hence the defensive behavior towards him. 

    A hedgehog will only be as bonded to you as long as you put in the work to form the relationship. However even then your never guaranteed to have a hedgehog whose easy to handle. 

    Many owners use "bonding bags" or "bonding scarves" which essentially is a fabric sack you hold or wear around your neck that your hedgehog hangs out in. These bonding pouches are nice because they allow you to resume with your normal routine (tidying your house/watching tv) while getting your hedgehog accustomed to your presence, smell and voice. Of course there are other tools and methods of bonding with your hog, and I'll be sure to talk about those in a later schpeel.

                                                             HEAT

   Let's talk about heat for a minute. "Some like it hot, none like it cold". That's my motto when it comes to heating hedgehogs. Meeting heat requirements is the most vital component of hedgehog care. Just about any other incorrect care method can be corrected with little negative effect on a hog, except not enough heat. 

    Hedgehogs absolutely must be provided with a temperature of 73-80 degrees Fahrenheit within their enclosure. No exceptions, no excuses... 

     If a hedgehog is kept at less than 73 degrees Fahrenheit it can attempt hibernation and die. That's just a very real reality of being a hedgehog owner and the importance of proper temperature cannot be stressed enough. Some hedgehogs even need a temp slightly higher than 73. To be on the safe side, I keep my hedgehogs at 75 -80 degrees Fahrenheit. Average temperature in my hedgehog room is 78*F . I haven't had any hibernation attempts so I know its a good temperature for them. To be on the safe side, you may want to keep your hedgehogs at 75-80*F also. 78 degrees being a nice middle ground for temperature that many owners have experienced success with.

   Providing heat may sound like a scary overwhelming thing, but it's really not. Heat setups are super simple and very cost effective. You can provide heat using a ceramic heat emitter, a ceramic based dome lamp, and a thermostat set at 75*F. You pop the che into the dome and attach it to the thermostat, plug it in and presto! Consistent, safe heat for your hog! The dome lamp can either clamp onto your cage (on the outside so hoggy doesn't get burned) or can rest on a heat safe screen cage cover.

  FOOD

     They gotta eat! You should always provide your hedgehog with fresh food and water. Most hedgehogs are messy eaters and will attempt to make great art displays with their food. 

        Dry cat food is an excellent and proper base diet for hedgehogs. Be sure the ingredients in the food you select are naturally sourced. Many readily available cat foods are full of synthetic ingredients to the point that I'd consider them no better than feeding your hedgehog a diet of potato chips. They may taste good to your hog, but in the long run could cause health ailments.      Also be wary of cat foods that contain a high content of peas. Peas are high in phosphorus and might effect your hedgehogs calcium utilization and cause health ailments. There  is no conclusive studies providing evidence of this, but it may be a good idea to use caution.

    When checking cat food labels aim for a protein percentage around 30%-  40%.it's a meal plan that works for my hogs and is overseen by my veterinarian.

There are a few dedicated breeders who are currently keeping their animals on a more naturalistic diet. This more natural diet consists of whole raw prey, whole meats, eggs, raw diets marketed for dogs/cats,loads of insects and a smaller amount of kibble than the traditional diet. If you are interested in keeping your hoggo on a more natural diet, I suggest speaking with your vet and researching raw diet food companies. www.omaspride.com is a good local raw food company that has quite a few "blends" that hoggos have been reported to love!  

         Mazuri Insectivore diet is a nice addition to your hedgehog's diet. It's easily obtainable in pet shops for about 13$ for 3lbs. There is a lot of misinformation presented online regarding insectivore diet and I encourage you to read the blurb below I have written in regards to it. Insectivore diet helps simulate the high chitin diet your hedgehog biologically needs.     

Research hedgehog nutrition and use that knowledge, along with the input of your veterinarian, to make the b est diet choices for your hedgehog. Be wary of diet info you read on social media and do not take to heart any research regarding the European hedgehog being applied to the care of African Pygmy hedgehogs.

   You should also offer your hedgehog live or pre frozen insects. **never feed insects caught from outside!* 

    I like to offer my Hedgehogs a nice variety of meal worms, dubia roaches, superworms and crickets 2-3x a week. I prefer to freeze all the insects before offering to my hedgies. Sometimes feeder insects carry little yucky parasites inside them that could be transmitted to your hedgehog. It is a relatively low risk, but its still a risk I'd like to avoid.

   Pre freezing kills a lot of the little buggers inside the little buggers, making them much safer to feed. Some hedgehogs won't eat live insects and some hedgehogs won't eat pre frozen. Every hedgehog is different, it might take some diet trial and error to formulate the perfect diet plan for your hedgehog.

   Never feed your hedgehog citrus fruits, dried fruits, nuts, garlic, onions, chocolate, candy, rhubarb, potato, bread or milk. Each of those items can make your hedgie very sick and even case death. 

    **Some people like to offer vegetables and fruits as part of their hoggos diet. If you choose to do so, please avoid the above listed plant matter. At this time I am NOT offering much vegetation in my herd's diet due to veterinarian recommendation.

  HOUSING

 HEDGEHOGS LIKE RELATIVELY QUIET ENVIRONMENTS. A hoggo in a busy room is probably a stressed out hoggo. A stressed out hoggo is more likely to be skittish and bite. BE SURE TO PLACE YOUR HOG'S CAGE AWAY FROM very high traffic areas, loud rooms, and other pets that are loud or able to reach the cage. 

     Housing for your hedgie. I do not recommend free roam/free range keeping your hedgehog at all. It's a way of keeping hedgehogs that's too risky for me to even touch on. 

     You can easily house your hedgehog in a plastic steralite storage bin (tote). The bins come in many sizes and heights. I recommend a height of atleast 13 inches and floor space of atleast 3.5 square feet. The bigger the better of course! 

     You might Also choose to use a commercially available solid bottomed wire sided cage from the pet store. These cages can also be used for hedgehogs, just be sure the gaps between the bars don't allow your hedgehog to slip through and escape. Also it is recommended to form a Barrier where the sides connect to the base, this is to prevent your hedgehog from climbing the bars. Hedgehogs are not graceful by any means. They're not good climbers and are rather clumsy. Multiple level cages are not recommended. 

    Always provide your hedgehog with a solid bottomed running wheel. No metal mesh wheels or wheels with holes or gaps on the running surface! 

    There are 2 main types of wheels , the bucket and saucer, I have used both to varying degrees of success but strongly prefer and recommend the bucket wheels. 

   Also be sure to give your hog plenty of toys. No toys made of wood, containing sharp pieces, containing threads/yarn/hair, with holes, or with netting should be used. Some good toys are plastic balls with bells inside, rubber duckies, ball pit balls, and other Smooth light yet solid toys.

     Fleece. I use fleece. I love fleece, my hogs are happy with fleece, it's all good in the fleece hood. 

      If you choose to use fleece as a cage Bottom/substrate be sure to use anti pull/pill fleece. You can purchase a few yards of fleece from a fabric store, cut it to fit the bottom of your cage and it will last you a  long time. I replace fleeces when they seem tattered or stretched looking. 

   Be sure to change your Fleece Every other day or so to prevent bacterial build up and strong odor. Wash your fleece in a fragrance free detergent. Hanging fleece to dry will help minimize stretching and tattering. 

     If you don't want to use fleece  you can certainly used wood shavings. Aspen is a nice  type of shavings that is pretty safe for Hedgehogs. I used to use aspen bedding until we had an outbreak of snake mites that tagged along in the shavings from the pet shop. Several of my snakes ended up getting mites and had to undergo extensive treatment to rid their parasite infections. I no longer use loose bedding of any type.

   If you choose to use loose bedding or shavings always freeze it for 2 weeks first to reduce the risk of parasite transmission to your hedgehogs. 

 Well, that's all the hogger care info I have for now. I hope it was helpful to you. I'm always open to suggestions and questions, feel free o comment, share, or pm me with questions!

   The story of a common hoggo diet myth: 
   As pets we typically offer our little prickle babies a diet of high quality cat food. It is thought that cat good best mimics their natural diet in comparison to commercially available hedgehog diet.  
   I was once fully opposed to a readily available diet called "Mazuri insectivore diet" as well as commercially available hedgehog food. However after meeting with a professional zoologist, my views on the mazuri insectivore diet have slightly changed. 
   It was once common knowledge (or more like a common rumor ) that the ground aspen in the insectivore diet is nothing but a filler. Lots of folks were spreading this rumor, but none of them called the manufacturer to ask what the science backing up the addition of aspen was. So I called. I wanted to know why the premier diet used in zoos and conservation programs was being discouraged online. 
      After talking to a professional zoologist who holds no stakes in the companies who produce or the sales of these foods, I was enlightened to discover that the aspen is actually an important ingredient. 
   In the world hedgehogs eat lots of insects. Their digestive systems have evolved to digest and require large amounts of chitin ( insect fiber). Aspen tricks the hedgehogs digestive system into thinking it's just eaten a bunch of chitin. It's the closest commercially available food that helps the hoggo's digestive system fiction the way it's evolved to. 
    Now I'm not exactly fond of feeding my hedgehogs aspen over insects.I will always recommend offering insects first.  But at least We now know the rumors floating all over the internet just aren't true. Insectivore diet isn't the filler-filled-evil it's made out to be. We also now know that insectivore diet may be a beneficial part of our hedgehog's diet, especially for owners who do not have access to the large amount of insects a hedgehog would need to fulfill it's high chitin need. 

    If we were to attempt to feed our hedgehogs the amount of insects they actually consume in the wild, we may need dozens of insects PER DAY. Plus we would need a variety of insects to keep nutritional balance. It's seemingly impossible. I breed my own colonies of insects and I still cannot produce the sheer amount of insects my hedgehogs need.
   It is always best to offer your hoggo a varied diet. Lots of insects in a variety of available species and whole prey items in addition to a nutritionally complete staple.  Mazuri Insectivore diet. It is a scientifically backed up formula that makes a decent replacement of the naturally high chitin food hedgehogs need.  I have begun offering it to my own animals and have noticed more predictable and healthy looking bowel movements. I feed Mazuri Insectivore diet in addition to quality cat foods. 

 Insectivore diet isn't horrible for hedgehogs, I firmly believe we will begin seeing a shift in how we care for our hedgehogs due to research that is in progress by a few dedicated individuals across the country.
  

   Variety is the key to life. Insectivore diet offered in addition to a good cat food is helpful to hedgehogs as it provides the chitin like fiber their digestive systems need.

    The lesson I have thankfully learned from this "hedgehog diet dilemma" is: Just because people are commenting about it online, doesn't mean it's true. Stay open minded my friends!

I think it is important to mention that " just because it's on Facebook" doesn't make it true.  I think it's so important that I've decided to write an entire blurb about it and how it can effect hedgehogs.

      I'd like to start by saying that I have been working with these animals a very long time,  I have a few vets I work with as well as a professional zoologist as a very helpful associate. These are the individuals I consult if I have any questions regarding hedgehog care or feeding.  Zoos are very good resources to learn from as they often have access to how these species are kept not only in their establishments, but how they're kept in establishments all over the world! Veterinarians are also a wealth of knowledge. These are the folks who have formal medical training and can diagnose and treat an illness. A vet is a priceless member of the hedgehog care team!

   As a breeder I have experienced many trials and errors in my evolution of keeping hoggos. When I first started caring for exotic animals there was no Facebook and there were no Facebook groups to join and discuss animals with. now a days it seems as if Facebook group membership is an accessory to pet ownership.  I realized this and it concerned me due to the amount of strange advice I'd seen given online. Due to this I started a Facebook group of my own that my adopters and the public are free to join. This group is a little different in that medical treatment advice is not given, that's a Vet's job not the online community's. Medical advice seen online can actually be dangerous when applied to real life situations.     

       One example of this potential danger was observed when an owner of a hedgehog called me in hysterics. She had seen online that feeding bee pollen to your hedgehog is the new super healthy  thing being recommended in an online group. She bought the bee pollen from the health food store and gave it to her hedgehog. The hoggo ate the bee pollen readily and seemed to really enjoy it. A few minutes later the hedgehog began to get swollen on it face and forearms. The owner rushed the hedgehog to the vet. Unfortunately the veterinarian was not able to save the little hedgehog and he suffered respiratory failure despite the medical team's best efforts. 

      Another owner contacted me as she had a pet shop obtained hedgehog that she had thought to have a urinary tract infection upon purchase. She told me she had been treating the UTI with cranberry  tablets as suggested to her by an online group for a little over 14 days. Her hedgehog ultimately developed a kidney infection due to lack of proper treatment. I am unsure  if this particular hedgehog made a full recovery or not as the owner did not provide any additional updates.

       A final owner had been treating, at home via internet advice, scabbing on his hedgehog. The scabs were of unknown origin and would seemingly heal with hibiclease baths and neosprin applications. The scabs and red bumps would reappear a few days to a week later. Eventually  the bumps got worse and the surrounding skin was looking scaly. The owner decided to take his hog to the vet. This hedgehog had a Staph infection . The infection was effectively treated with a round of antibiotics and did not reoccur.  Poor online medical advice could have very well been the death of this animal. 

             Facebook groups can be great, but they can also be harmful. as I have experienced in my working with the above owners. I receive lots of calls from owners who did not get their animal from me, but are facing medical issues and want me to provide a diagnosis or treatment advice. I tell them the same thing I tell my adopters, I will be here to listen and support you through your hedgehog's treatment, but I will not give medical advice as I am not a vet. 

Now back to how it relates to hedgehog food....

 I see a lot of sketchy or dangerous advice given online and new owners adopt that advice into their care routines. 

   A perfect example of this is the advice of feeding your hedgehog a diet of cat food. There is no formal study done on the African Pygmy Hedgehog being fed cat food. It is important to remember that the European and African hedgehogs are different species with different needs. I have seen folks reference studies conducted on European hedgehogs when making care or feeding recommendations. Although these studies *might* be a helpful start, they are in no way to be taken as direct advice towards the African hedgehog's care. 

   From talking to other breeders who have been around a lot longer than I,  Imagine the cat food conversion went something like this: One day a breeder decided cat food was best, spread that information, and everyone readily accepted it. No formal study. nothing, Just the word of some breeder who was    looking for a cost effective readily available substitute to the once recommended hedgehog pellets.

        As a result we tend to forget that  hedgehogs need insects. In the wild they eat mostly insects. Cat food is made to fit the digestive need of an obligate carnivore. Hedgehogs are mostly insectivorous animals that occasionally scavenge  and catch whole prey such as rodents, lizards and snakes. 

     A hedgehog who lives on cat food alone probably will not be as vivacious as a hedgehog fed a varied diet. 

    I prefer my animals to thrive over just survive. Though a hoggo may survive on just cat food, they probably won't thrive. 

  I suggest my owners offer a variety to their hedgehog's diet. That variety does include cat food, but also includes insects, whole prey items and insectivore pellets/diet.

Bringing home your hoglet can be very exciting. Through the excitement and joy of being a new hedgie parent, questions can arise. Here I will provide info and answer the most commonly asked questions i get from new hedgehog owners! If you have any additional questions that are not answered here, email thealternativehedgehog@gmail.com and i will be happy to answer your inquiry!

Some owners wonder if they should hold and socialize with their new hedgehog right away OR if they should give a few days to allow their hog to adjust to a new environment. This is often a topic of debate among breeders as well. 

My advice is this: Allow your hoglet to spend a few hours, or even the first day, to himself to explore and get used to his new surroundings. Then begin bonding with him. You'll want your hoglet to get used to you sooner than later. I personally have determined that waiting too long before beginning the bonding process can do more harm than good.

If you've adopted an adult hog, then it is a good idea to give a day or two for acclimation the a new environment. 

I have spent a lot of time with a lot of hedgehogs and it seems that hoglets adapt to new environments more quickly than older hogs, hence why I give a little more adjustment time to adults. 

This is a very common question pondered by new hedgie owners.Here's my advice on feeding your new hogger: 

For hoglets I "Free Feed"- hoglets 5 months of age and under get all the food their little hearts desire. I keep their bowls full all the time and when they're near empty, I refill them. I don't exactly measure the food but there is always food present in the food dish. Growing hoglets need additional calories, fat, and nutrition to guide them through the pivotal early stages of development. Providing a 24 hr buffet will ensure they have constant access to the additional nutrition they need. 

For adult hogs: I offer my adult hedgehogs approx 1/8th cup of kibble per day. I'm not big on accurately measuring though, and often waste quite a bit of kibble!

 To determine exactly how much you should offer your hog, try varrying amounts of food each day for a few days ( starting with the least amount of food of course). when you've reached the amount that leaves only a few kibbles in the dish by the time the next feeding comes around, you've reached to magic kibble amount! 

As long as your hedgie isn't thin and can ball up comfortably with out big adorable (but unhealthy) fat rolls preventing him, he's most likely a good weight and can continue being offered the amount of food you've determined as the magic amount! 

If you've got a particularly active hedgehog- marathon wheel runner- you'll have to offer more food than f you have a more low key hedgie.

Recently I was asked this question by a concerned hog mother who had chosen to use a loose bedding for a hedgie she's adopted from online, her hedgehog was not adjusting well to the new bedding and had to be changed to fleece bedding. After switching to fleece bedding her hog's symptoms of sneezing and itching disappeared. 

If your hog begins sneezing or periodically itching;

First, don't panic! Hedgehogs sneeze and it's just a biological function meant to clear nasal passages. sneezing every now and again is normal. But heavy sneezing, especially with mucus could mean something more than an occasional nasal irritant.

Evaluate the situation and determine if your hedgehog could be having a reaction to his/her new environment. 

If your hedgehog is sneezing with discharge from eyes and nose (think mucus) then he/she may have developed a respiratory infection and may require a vet visit. 

If your hedgehog is chronologically itching, or begins loosing lots of quills (different from quilling), your hog may have contracted mites. Mites often tag along in bags of loose bedding. If your using a loose bedding, freezing it first will help lessen (but not prevent) the risk of a yucky little mite tagging along and making it's way to your hog. 

When in doubt, Consult your vet!

Just like most mammalian species, hedgehogs experience painful developmental stages. It's quite peculiar when you really think about it; puppies, humans and hedgehogs all go through strange development stages that often bring discomfort- teething, growing pains, puberty etc..

  Hedgehogs go through the process referred to as "quilling" , when they loose quills and grow in new ones. the process usualy beging at 6 weeks old and lasts for a few weeks. the process will begin again a few months later. the cycle will repeat throughout the first year of life. After 1 year of age, quilling is less occurring. Some hogs will continue to quill only once per year while loosing a few quills here and there in between, while other hogs will quill multiple times per year. 

    During quilling hedgehogs normally get a little cranky. it's normal. a hoglet that was open and curious may become huffy. Quilling is painful, I don't blame hoglets for becoming a little miserable! If you look closely at the skin and quills of a young hedgehog experiencing it's first set of quill loss, you'll see red irritation and sometimes blood marks from the quills breaking through the skin.

   Here are some things you can do to help your hedgehog through this process: keep your hog clean but don't over bathe. You'll want to keep the skin and environment clean to prevent any skin infection, but you'll also want to prevent over washing the skin, as this leads to dryness. 

   I'm not a big fan of lathering hogs when bathing them, I don't use an actual shampoo. I've found that lathering the skin can wash away protective oils and leave the hog skin very dry. So I use a conditioner instead. 

  Washing my hogs using conditioner has been pretty successful in limiting over dryness. I bathe by putting the conditioner in the water and then "waving" the conditioner over the hedgehog. If I've got a particularly dirty hog, I will use a soft bristle tooth brush to directly apply the conditioner to the skin while in the bath. The hog is then very thoroughly rinsed with fresh water. 

    In addition to a conditioner bath you can apply add a little vitamin e, flax,or olive oil to your hedgehog's food. Fish/salmon oil can even be used, but can result in more stinky poops. It is always better to hydrate the skin from the outside comparable to hydrating it from the outside.  I say this because  applying oils and moisturizer topically helps "seal in" moisture. Sounds good right? Well, when you seal in moisture you also seal in bacteria and fungus. The held in moisture doesn't allow the skin to breath as it normally would either. This combination can cause a sticky bacterial infection or even a fungal infection. 

 Fungal infections can be very difficult to treat,. For these reasons I do not use oils or moisturisers on my hoggo's skin and cannot recommend it's frequent use to other. 

   Remember! Continue handling and bonding with your hedgehog during the quilling process. This is a critical point in development and you'll want o keep the bond growing!

 If you want to take your hedgehog outside, it is a good idea to use topical revolution for parasite prevention. Revolution requires a prescription and a licensed veterinarian can coach you in it's use. 

Will my Hedgehog need vaccinations or to be neutered/spayed?

Hedgehogs do not need any vaccinations and do not need to be altered. 

Hedgehogs do not go into heat, spray, or have menstrual periods, so neuter/spay are not generally needed.

 Hedgehogs display an unusual behavior called 'self anointing' or 'anointing". 

The hoggo will explore and sniff it's surrounding per normal but will suddenly stop, lick or sniff extra curiously, then like a contortionist lick it's self (usually on it's back).

It is a very peculiar thing to witness at first and may sometimes concern an owner. 

Rest assured this behavior is normal.

Science has yet to prove why hoggos anoint. but there a re a few theories floating around;

1.) The hedgehog likes the scent of it's environment (or an object in it) and wants to  take along the scent as a "keep sake".

2.) The hedgehog self anoints with the scent of objects within it's environment in order to smell like it's environment  and stay hidden from predators. 

Personally, I think it's the first theory.

When your hoggo anoints it will produce a frothy foam from it's mouth. this is normal. it's a foamed up wad of saliva that holds the scent and allows the hog to apply the scent it it's self.

Hedgehogs explore the world using their mouths, they do not have hands nor the ability to pick items up and explore them using their paws.

Young hedgies  grab their owners often. They're exploring you. A scared hedgehog will often ball up so rest assured that nibbling is not an aggressive behavior. 

Think of the way a human baby will grab and chew it's mothers fingers, exploratory nibbling is the hoggo equivalent.

Hoglets as young as 10 days old will bite and lick items (and your fingers) and they may continue it throughout their lives!

 Hedgehogs have the ability to bite when stressed, scared or threatened. When you own a hedgehog you have to be aware of this. Some hoggos are also less tolerable of handling and will bite when they are "done with being held".If you have other animals in (particularly cats, dogs and noisy animals such as birds) your hedgehog may bite. Hedgehogs will also likely be more afraid and likely to bite when around loud children/people/t.v or vibrations such as a vacuum cleaner or stereo system. 

HEDGEHOGS LIKE RELATIVELY QUIET ENVIRONMENTS. A hoggo in a busy room is probably a stressed out hoggo. 

Now I hate to be a Debbie Downer but I have never had any success in litter box or potty training. 

You can certainly attempt to accomplish owning a potty mannered hoggo if you'd like, I've just never seen it done with any success.

If you want to give it a go, provide your hoggo with a corer litter pan and see if he/she uses it.

Male hedgehogs will stimulate their own private parts with their hands and mouths. 

This is normal and nothing to worry about.

There is no way you can stop this behavior. 

If you go to pick up your hedgie and he is having "boy time" just leave him alone until he is finished. 

Attempting to move your hoggo while he's doing this could result in him injuring his private parts.

Nope. 

Hedgehogs do not go through heat cycles nor experience a menstrual cycle...thank goodness. 

While there are things that your hoggo can have occasionally as a treat, the most important thing to focus on is a good quality diet. I have seen a few owners that focus so much on treats that base diet is neglected, resulting in a malnourished and/or obese hedgehog.

Provide your hedgehog with a balanced kibble and insects, supplemented with whole prey and even meats! Whole prey and meats are so relished by hedgies that  one could even consider them treats!

Treats really aren't necessary and are more of a human behavioral need than an animal's dietary need (sorry to be a party pooper).

If your insistent upon giving your hedgie treats, stick to plain cooked chicken, cooked ground beef and scrambled eggs. There is info regarding this topic further on the progressive hogparenting page.

Nope. Hedgehogs aren't rodents. They do not need to wear down their teeth. In fact you want to preserve the quality of their teeth, just like in humans!

Hedgehogs will not chew on items to dull their teeth and they do not need a salt lick to stay healthy, if provided with a salt lick it most likely won't be used or if used can cause dehydration. 

Hedgehogs need warm temperatures to survive. It is best to keep low humidity as well. High humidity in your hoggo cage can cause fungal infection and respiratory illness.

 Temperature is the most important part of being a successful hedgehog parent (in my opinion),which is why it is mentioned so many times on this website.

** Proper temperature is important ALL the time, but especially important in the fall and winter months!**

         Right now in the hedgehogs natural habitat it is (what we call) summer. Here in little Rhode Island USA, we're coming into winter.  Be sure to increase your temps in your hoggos cage slightly to help prevent weather related medical issues. 

   Sometimes the cooler weather can cause hedgehogs  to become less active, eat less, and even succumb to hibernation attempts. Hibernation attempts are usually fatal in hedgehogs, so proper temps are important.

    It's a good idea to bump your hoggos cage temp a few degrees during the winter months.

  In the wild, hedgehogs go into a state of lessened activity when the temps cool.      However, in captivity we haven't yet mastered the ability to help our hedgehogs through a state of torpor/semi hibernation. 

  Naturally their temps would gradually decrease along with light/dark ratios (hrs of day light/ night darkness). The hedgehog would slowly begin to eat less and sleep more while becoming sluggish..the metabolism would slow down as well. A delicate balance of many factors will take place in order to keep the hedgehog alive during this period of scarce food and weather change. 

    As pet owners/breeders/ hedgehog fanatics we haven't had enough conclusive reasearch provided to us to completely understand this complicated process.

    So for now, our beloved hoggos remain temperature sensitive. 

   Now that winter is upon us, please bump up your temps & provide your  hoggo with a few extra hours of light per day. You may also find that your hoggo will benefit from a slight boost in fat  intake this winter. Offering more feeder insects or a food with a higher fat content can help accomplish this!

It is a VERY good idea to offer your hedgehog an extended lighting period during the cool months.

In the wild, light cycles trigger a hedgehog to start preparing for a cool season hibernation/torpor. 

By increasing the amount of time our hedgehogs receive light each day, we can decrease the chances of a hibernation attempt or a preparation for a hibernation attempt- such as decreased food consumption. 

   You can increase light hours by putting a lamp next to your hedgehogs cage and leaving it on for 10-14 hours per day. 

If you have over head lighting, you can simply leave that on for 10-14 hours per day. 

I find 12 hours of light to be a good number. Some people do 10- 14 and have equal success. 

10 hours of light is probably the easiest to manage for most pet owners. 

I average 13 hours of light during the cooler months. 

  **if your schedule does not permit you to be home to turn lights on and off at 10-14 hour increments, you can use a timer. A time is a power outlet that allows you to set a timer on it that will turn a light on and off after a preset amount of time. These timers are available at home depot and petco. ***Be sure NOT to plug your heat lamp or source into the timer outlet! You DO NOT want your heat source on a timer! You want your heat source on all the time!***

When fall begins to creep in you may want to increase your hoggo's fat intake. 

This does not require a drastic diet change! 

Additional fat in the diet during the tricky cool months can help provide your hoggo with a little extra "buffer" should temps suddenly drop. In the wild hedgehogs will stuff their faces with extra food items in preparation for their yearly semi-hibernation state. Having extra body fat allows the hedgehog to sustain it's self better during this period. 

Pet hedgehogs do not hibernate and are encouraged to stay slender with little excess body fat. Therefore if temps suddenly drop and a hibernation state is educed, the hedgehog has very little fat reserves to keep it's metabolic processes functioning. This is most likely why most captive hedgehogs who undergo a hibernation attempt tend to have long term issues such a repeated hibernation attempts, heart issues, and kidney issues. Their little body never fully recovers due to a depletion in organ health. A small fat reserve can help prevent that depletion.

You can increase your hoggo's fat consumption by: offering a wet food with a fat content higher than your regular kibble 3x per week.

OR

You can offer a pre-killed pinkie mouse every week.  You can buy these at reptile/exotic animal stores and pet shops such as Pet Co and Pet Smart. 

In Rhode Island you can support a local business by purchasing your pinkie mice and feeder insects from Sabrina's Reptile Kingdom, located in Cumberland Rhode Island. 

OR

Offer  feeder insects, particularly wax worms a few times per week.

OR

the simplest yet stinkiest way to increase fat intake is by adding fish oil to your hoggos kibble 2-3x per week. Fish oil will cause your hedgie to produce stinky bowel movements. 

Only a very small amount of oil is needed, if gel caps-1/2 of a capsule can be used and the other half can be used at the next offering. 

   Most owners like to use a mix of all of the above listed fat intake increasing methods. 

Increasing your hoggos fat intake should usually occur mid October-March. 

Some owners do not increase their hoggos fat intake at all and do just fine.

My hog room is light, temperature and humidity controlled so additional fat isn't particularly necessary for my animals. However, most pet hog owners may find a slight fat increase very beneficial to their animals.

(This information is not medical advice. This information is not a substitute of veterinary care. Always present all care changes to your licensed DVM)

A hibernation attempt can be super scary. I have seen a few in my time. 

If your hedgehog's cage temps are too low (or lighting is not enough), you may witness the events that can lead up to a hibernation attempt such as ; decreased appetite and mild lethargy- your hoggo will seem more sleepy than usual.  *hedgehogs are noctural. it is normal for your hog to be sleeping during the day. it is mportant to know your hedgehog's normal habits so monitoring for changes can be less challenging*

If you are noticing increased tiredness and/or lessened appetite try boosting the temps and increasing lighting hours. 

A full blown hibernation attempt will present it's self as: A hedgehog that is cool to the touch (especially the belly area), a hedgehog that is staying balled up and cannot unball, if the hedgehog unballs it is usually wobbly and seems disoriented.  

What to do if you suspect a hibernation attempt: 

Don't panic but act swiftly.

Hold your hedgehog against your skin to raise body temp. 

Increase the temp in the room by a decent amount(if room temp is 70 increase to 80).

DO NOT put your hog in hot water- this can lead to shock. 

DO NOT apply a blow dryer to your hedgehog. this too can cause a state of shock. 

Contact your veterinarian for further advice.

Some hedgehogs survive a hibernation attempt, some do not. Some of those that survive suffer long term organ functioning issues.

The best way to handle a hibernation attempt is to prevent one!